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WWW up and running!
Q-ball's Guitar Project entered a
new phase after the first of the year. No longer do you need to access this site by the hideous 45 character Verizon address.
That address was a big factor keeping people from visiting The Stripe Room. Today, we have gone The World Wide Web baby! The
double G gave the domain name qballsguitars.com to me as a Christmas present. After a couple of
weeks tweaking and adjusting, all systems were go, and the switch was made!
So the time has come to use those
extra MB’s of web space. New Gallery pictures, more sounds & maybe some video, an archive for past articles, and
who knows what else will be coming this year. A BIG thank you to GG for making this evolution possible.
UPDATE:
It was too good to be true. Everything came off as planned, and qballsguitars.com
was expanding, and running smoothly. Then the unexpected happened: (actually, I did expect it) The MORONS
at Verizon lost, or ate, or deleted (Verizon still doesn't have a clue) the whole website! But to
do a totally thorough job, they also deleted my two backup copies of the site as well!
So on February 5, 2005 I was forced to put up an "I'll be back" page, at the now blank, Q-ball's Guitar Project.
Needless to say I was devistated;
Over a years worth of work was gone, and I didn't have the energy (or memory) to do the site again. I took two weeks
off to send hate email, and make vile calls to Verizon (MEGA companies just don't give a damn...remember
that). Then I got busy looking for another company to host The Project. On February 23rd I chose Interland as the next stop
on the QBGP evolutionary chain.
So, if you have
been to this site before the meltdown, you're probably not noticing much of a difference from the old website. I figure that
is a good thing, and a sign that my memory isn't as bad (or destroyed) as I thought! I hope I will never have to go through
this soul searching procedure again, because QBGP almost didn't happen this second time.
May the servers
at Interland have uninterrupted power and suffer no glitches for the lifespan of QBGP....amen.

New look for The Stripe Room. The walls of the Stripe Room recieved a
new look during May. They got a couple of coats of Glidden satin Swiss Coffee paint. Allthough the new color isn't much different
from the old, it was nice to cover up all the graffitti, stickers, and bullet holes.

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| Before |
This time the painting also included the dark wood paneling that ran down the fireplace side
of the room. For years I have put up with the "black hole" darkness of that wall.

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| After |
One coat of Swiss Coffee paint and "presto". The new white washed look has really opened up the room
and provided a better contrast for the six strings.

Newest member
of The Stripe Room added 8/16: I first saw one of these guitars while I was looking through a local guitar emporium.
I’m looking along; my eyes jumping from one guitar to the next …nice color…too much…pretty top…way
too much…ugly & beat…WHAT THE HELL! I chuckled for a full five minutes as I bobbed left and right, up
and down, to get different views of the guitar. The sales guys knew what my eyes had locked onto, and they started to
laugh along with me. At first I thought it was a home built guitar, made by someone who had logged way too much bong time.
But, once it was handed to me, I realized it was a stroke of pure genius. This Flipout guitar had great balance, super fit
and finish, the right (Fender) hardware, and looked totally crazy. I thought: Who said guitars have to look like each other
to perform the job of making music? Dewey Decibel (a real guy…and a company) must have asked that same question himself.

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| Even if you set your hair on fire...your STILL get more attention just playing a Flipout! |
The Flipout starts with a basswood body, maple
neck with reversed headstock, a vintage tremolo and 3 alnico single coils. The output jack is not the one on the front (it’s
a dummy) but is hidden in the lower cutaway. Depending on which of the six models you choose, you get a good mix of finishes,
pickguard colors, hardware color, and maple or rosewood capped fretboard. Models Include: Austin City Cab, Invisible, Scandalicious,
Lit Cigarette, Shameless, and Barry Leventhal, which was the model I bought.
Love it…or hate it, its bound to get a
guitarist noticed on ANY stage. Four major guitar magazines have reviewed the Flipout, and all of them loved it. I just hope
that people don’t dismiss it as a joke, because it’s a damn fine guitar that deserves its props.

Newest member of The Stripe Room added
9/11- A Chandler Telepathic guitar had been a 6-year search for the Holy Grail for me. After purchasing my first
Chandler guitar, and seeing how special they were, I swore I would somehow obtain all the models in their catalog. Since 2000,
I have seen a lot of Tele-style guitars constructed using Chandler parts, but only found two that were factory Telepathics.
Both of those axes had lived a rough life and were priced stupid for their condition. When I saw this guitar for sale I couldn’t
believe my luck! Not only was it a Thinline model (fewer than 20% of all Telepathic are Thinlines), but also was a limited
run TV version of fewer than 300. I paused to wonder what extreme circumstances had forced the original owner to sell such
a rare item. As they say: One man’s loss is another man’s gain. There
is only one word to describe the 1996 Chandler Telepathic Thinline TV: Versatile. Paul
and Adrian Chandler wanted to pay homage to the late 50’s Les Paul Junior TV styling, while making a totally modern,
multipurpose guitar. The Telepathic TV incorporates a mahogany body with tone chambers and a single F hole. The lightened
body style was used to create perfect neck and body balance along with an overall light weight . The bolt-on mahogany neck
is capped with a rare Brazilian rosewood fretboard highlighted with abalone dot inlays. Adrian told me that they had the rosewood
fretboard blanks sitting in their warehouse since 1984, just waiting for a special project. A lightweight Wilkinson USA string-through-body
bridge and Kluson-style vintage tuning keys anchor both ends of the strings.

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| Don't let this one fool you...This ain't yer father's Telecaster |
There were
only 2 color choices available for the Telepathic TV - Transparent Yellow and my guitar’s Transparent SG Red. Both colors
were set off by a 5-ply black / white pickguard and chrome hardware. The Chandler’s electronics are state-of-the-art
and are a big reason the guitar is equally at home playing country, jazz, rock, or even metal. The pickups are Seymour Duncan
Little ’59 humbuckers specially wound for Chandler. These pickups are true humbuckers but made to fit the single coil
size openings of the bridge and neck. The volume and tone pots both pull up to split either humbucker into single coil mode.
A three-way switch then allows you to select neck, bridge, or both pickups. That’s a lot of tone combinations from a
guitar that looks like just a standard Telecaster.

Disaster Averted!
Unless you happened to come to QBGP sometime between October
11th thru 26th, you'd never know how close I came to shutting down this site! My Home Page proclamed " Q-Ball's Ends"
in bright red and yellow letters as the end was in sight on October 31st. According to my site counter only 7 people happened
by to read my epitaph (shame on ALL the rest of you).
I had explained in some detail that my Web host was sold to
another company who then decided to raise my rates 66% without any increase in service. Along with all the other $ervice$
needed to put together and maintain a website (guestbook, domain registration, P.O. box, internet provider) things had gotten
out of control price wise. Also, because so few people EVER leave me feedback, it became purely a financial decision
not to give blood to keep the site up for so little response. (HINT!
it's time to go to the Contact page and leave some @%&$*~
feedback for me!)
Luckily, after much arguing, detailed logic prevailed and my
web host decided they would waive the increase in rates for me, thus allowing me to continue. It all sounds like much
to do about nothing, but for those 15 days it was full-on turmoil.
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FYI: Wood you like to know?
In the ‘70s, many players regarded a solidbody
as little more than an inert slab of wood. The acoustic properties of an electric guitar were deemed relatively inconsequential
to its amplified sound. Guitarists considered tone to be a function of hardware, pickups, and electronics. “The heavier
the guitar, the better the tone” was the prevailing wisdom.
By the mid ‘80s, attitudes had shifted: People recognized that a solidbody’s acoustic sound was
the real origin of its tone. Because the body acts as a soundboard, the electric
guitar is an acoustic guitar, first and foremost. You are taking something very small - the acoustic output of a solidbody
- and amplifying it tremendously. Small imperfections in the acoustic tone become
blatantly apparent in the electric sound.
Different woods determine how the body “hears” string vibration.
In turn that vibration is transferred to the neck, bridge, and pickups affecting the guitars overall tone. Electric guitar
bodies are available in a wide variety of woods, each with its own sonic qualities:
Alder is a common body wood. Its sound - characterized by a moderate
attack and smooth decay - gives the guitar an even, balanced tone with well-defined lows and clear highs. Alder’s tonal
balance makes it a good choice for guitarists who need an instrument that can cover a broad range of musical styles.
Ash (Northern Hard & Southern Soft a/k/a “Swamp ash”) A lightweight American wood, has a distinct ringing tone. Ash bodies work well
with spring tremolo systems and single-coil pickups, producing transparent timbres with bell-like overtones. Medium-weight
swamp ash bodies have the best tonal balance and sustain.
Basswood became a popular tone wood several years ago. Guitars built
for loud, high-gain playing frequently feature basswood bodies. Basswood’s tone is smooth, without many sharp edges.
Attack is moderate, while sustain is round and even.
Mahogany (varieties are Brazilian, African, Philippine or Indian) is preferred by players looking for a warm, round tone. Smooth attack and rich,
singing sustain characterize the sound of this light to moderately heavy wood.
Maple (varieties include rock, curly, flamed, and birdseye) provides a sharp pick attack and quick decay, and generates a strong
fundamental response without major overtone coloration.
Poplar is also a commonly used body wood. Its weight is slightly
heavier than Alder, but it has very similar tonal qualities and a balanced attack.
Alternative woods are also becoming more popular. You can find high end custom models and
some production instruments that feature Koa,
Korina and Walnut
bodies. As well as exotic woods such as Bubinga, Padauk, Lacewood
and Zebrawood.

What's that on your neck?
NECK
WOOD
A
solidbody’s neck helps shape the instrument’s acoustic voice. It is a primary tonal component, along with the
body, bridge, fingerboard, and strings. Differences in wood density and stiffness alter the way the neck translates string
sound to the body. Tone can vary greatly, even among necks of the same wood type. In most cases, harder woods such as Maple produce a bright, clear sound. Mahogany and other softer wood impart
more warmth. You can find alternatives to traditional neck woods more easily today than in the past. Pau
Ferro (ironwood), Rosewood, Wenge, and Fiber-Composite necks are readily available on custom and production instruments
NECK JOINT
Bolt-on construction uses screws
or bolts to connect a separate neck and body together to produce a guitar, such as a Fender Strat or Tele. A good fit
is critical; the neck must fit tightly in the pocket and make good contact on all sides of the joint. Any gap will result
in lost sound. This joint contributes to the bolt-on’s identifiable “twangy”
tone by emphasizing certain frequencies over others.
Set-in construction refers to gluing the neck into the body using a dovetail joint or mortise and tenon of
some sort, as with a Gibson Les Paul.
Some builders feel a set-in joint gives the guitar a “singing” quality. Smooth, warm sustain with moderate attack
are characteristics often attributed to set-in neck guitars
Neck-through-body construction
means the neck section continues all the way from the headstock through the body to the bottom strap button. Small “wings”
glued to the sides of the extended neck form the body of the guitar; an example is the Gibson Firebird. Neck-through sections
are frequently maple, with a softer wood for the body wings. Neck-through instruments work well in high-volume playing situations
that call for bright tone, with a quick attack, and a defined low end.
TRUSS
ROD
Within
most necks lies a hidden tone component - the trussrod. Primarily designed to counter string tension (neck bow), the trussrod
system alters the neck’s mass and stiffness. It must always be under tension: a loose rod can resonate sympathetically
with the strings, absorbing some frequencies and causing dead notes and weak sustain. Two common designs are the two-piece
double expanding rod and the single rod. A double expanding trussrod’s stiffness and weight
improves sustain while the single rod weights less, which helps create a warmer tone.
FINGERBOARD
The
fingerboard material contributes to the ultimate end sound. Various materials filter the root vibration of the string differently,
modifying the instrument’s tone.
Ebony is the hardest and heaviest
of common fingerboard woods, adding snap and clarity to the sound. Crisp attack and fast decay contribute to ebony’s
open (as opposed to warm) tone.
Maple fingerboards produce slightly
less snap than ebony boards. More evenly balanced than ebony, maple’s attack and decay characteristics yield sustain
and bright tone. Many guitars have one-piece maple necks - the fingerboard is simply the neck’s surface. One-piece
necks transfer string vibration differently than those with a separate glued on fingerboard. Two otherwise identical guitars,
one with a one-piece neck and the other with a separate fingerboard, will sound remarkably different.
Rosewood fingerboards
are warmer sounding, with less defined attack than either ebony or maple--both of which are denser woods. Notes seem to bloom
after being picked. Some attribute rosewood’s sweeter, midrange-heavy tone to its high oil content; the oil presumably
acts as an acoustic damper, rolling off high end.
Pau Ferro is an alternative
to traditional fingerboard woods, This South American hardwood has recently gained favor with some of the country’s
top builders.It combines rosewood’s warm tone with ebony’s smooth feel.
Synthetic fingerboards share
two traits that affect tone: high density and extreme stiffness. Graphite, phenolic, and other composite fingerboards offer
extreme clarity and high-end response, as well as note-to-note consistency.

Why Fret About It?
HEADSTOCK
Flat or tilt-back are the
two kinds of headstock designs, and both have a primary effect on tone. Flat headstocks
are essentially a continuation of the neck itself .The grain of the neck wood travels uninterrupted past the nut, into the
headstock, to the end of the guitar. A flat headstock is more alive than a tilt-back design because the strings create minimal
down-pressure on the nut producing a characteristically “open” sound.
There are two types of tilt-back headstocks: integral or spliced. Both
versions angle back away from the plane of the fretboard. This angle varies by manufacturer but is usually 13 to 20 degrees
from neck parallel. The neck and headstock in an integral tilt-back design are one large, continuous
piece of wood. So you get the sound and responsiveness of that species of wood. A spliced tilt-back
headstock consists of a separate piece of wood glued onto the end of the neck. The more glue and wood pieces comprising
the headstock, the more the sound is a composite of all these woods. Tilt-back headstocks create greater down-pressure over
the nut, which contributes to the guitars sustain. Instead of the string vibrations dissipating through the headstock, they
transfer back into body through the neck.
TUNING MACHINES
Tuning machines anchor the strings at the headstock and generally
come in two types: locking or non-locking. The difference is
non-locking tuners must have the string bent and wound multiple times to secure it in place. The locking
tuner has a knob or lever that grasps and holds the string in place for winding, and is less prone to slippage. The condition
of the tuner is important, as worn or loose parts can produce nasty rattling or buzzing. Tuners also give the headstock more
mass, which helps impart increased sustain. Still, tuning machines are not considered a primary contributor to an electric
guitars tone. The result of changing tuning machines though, is unpredictable as this alters the mass and the resonant frequency
of the neck, modifying the guitar’s overall voice.
NUT
Standard nut: In the ‘70s, many guitarists replaced their guitar’s
nuts with brass units. The misconception was that a brass nut would improve overall sustain. The reality was that brass was
a vibration sink and absorbed a lot of string energy. Today there is a variety of materials used to construct nuts: plastic,
bone, aluminum and recently, a synthetic material called Tusq. But, the nut can only influence the sound of the open strings.
Once the string is fretted, that fret essentially becomes the nut. An improperly installed nut can adversely affect tone.
The nut must be properly seated, making firm contact with the neck or will increase vibration, resulting in uneven response.
A nut’s string slots must be cut correctly as well. If a string is allowed to move in the slot, the result is buzzing
and severe tone loss on open strings.
Locking nuts, which use a plate
to clamp and hold the strings, are another issue. An ill-fitted unit can decrease sustain, and alter string pressures and
angle. A properly fitted locking nut doesn’t alter a guitar’s tone, other than creating slightly more headstock
mass. However, since locking tremolos and locking nuts are always installed as a system, its almost impossible to evaluate
the difference this nut would make solely by itself.
FRETS
Some
players and builders believe large frets enhance sustain. They feel the wire’s added mass transfers more string vibration
into the guitar. Large frets also raise the strings up further from the fretboard, altering the tone. The quality of the fretwork
- crowning and leveling - is more of a tone modifier than a fret’s size. A string contacting a narrow section at the
center of a well-crowned fret produces the best tone. A wide, flat contact point on a fret causes a less precise note with
reduced clarity. But, most builders and repairmen believe frets alter the feel of a guitar much more than they change
the sound.
SCALE LENGTH
Scale length is the string’s vibrating length from nut
to bridge saddle. The two traditional scales for solidbody guitars are 24 ¾”(Gibson) and 25 ½”(Fender).
Several manufacturers also build guitars with scale lengths between 22” and 25”(PRS). In addition to determining
the size of the fret spacing on the fretboard, scale length influences a guitar’s overall timbre. Many feel 25 ½
scale guitars have more defined notes that sound brighter and more transparent than 24 ¾” instruments. Proponents
of 24 ¾“ scale necks say the notes speak immediately and deliver a “tight” sound with strong midrange
punch and warmth. Most people learn to play, and become accustomed to the feel of one scale length, and tend to not play anything
else.
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Fun Fact: The first solid body electric guitar was invented in late 1940 &
early 1941. Inventor and guitarist Les Paul made this guitar by taking a 4x4-inch block of pine fence post and fitted it with
two homemade electronic pickups and a neck. Paul first played the guitar in public at a New York nightclub. The public, accustomed
to the look of large bodied acoustic guitars didn’t like Paul or his odd guitar. So Paul cut a Spanish style hollow-body
guitar in half and attached the sides to his 4x4 creation. Dubbed “The Log”, it did make the guitar look slightly
more conventional. This time the public loved Les Paul and his guitar, as they say….the rest is
history.


Fun Fact:
The first commercially available electric guitar was invented in 1931. Craftsman George Beauchamp and Engineer Adolph
Rickenbacker produced a Hawaiian lap-steel guitar dubbed the "Frying Pan". There were other inventors of that time working
with the idea of amplifying guitar strings, but Beauchamp and Rickenbacker were the first to go public.
| The Frying Pan |

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| Ready To Strap One Of These Axes On? |

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| The Swiss Cheese & Mr. Speed Guitars |

The newest members of The Stripe Room added 8/4: The Stripe Room recently
welcomed it's two newest members: An excellent condition 1990 Charvel Spectrum and a 1988 Charvel
Model 3DR also in superb shape. As they say: "When it rains, it pours". I hadn’t
purchased a guitar in over five months…not because I wasn’t looking…because it was as dry as a desert out
there in guitarland. Then one day it happens, before you know it, there are three
or four sweet deals looking you square in the eyes! Anyone who has perused this site before knows how much I covet Charvel
guitars, especially ones from the late 80’s and early 90’s. They’re high quality, well-engineered, great
sounding, and loads of fun. So when the opportunity presented it’s self to make a few deals…I jumped.
First the Spectrum: It has a beautiful Candy Blue finish applied to it’s poplar body,
which is set off by the retro (also quite Fenderish) white single ply pickguard.
Spectrums came with either a rosewood or maple fretboard on the bolt-on maple neck .
I hadn’t seen many with a maple fretboard, let alone in this rare body color. It just seemed that
the maple set off the dark blue body a little better than rosewood. The neck also screams, “look at me!” with the
body color reversed headstock and white “toothpaste” script (early 90’s) Charvel logo. Any resemblance to
an 80’s shred machine ends with this axes chromed hardware. A Jackson / Shaller Floyd Rose and locking nut, Jackson
branded Gotoh tuners, and heavy, knurled brass knobs that are all brightly plated. It definitely stands out from the ocean
of black Floyds and hardware in the Charvel catalog of that time. The electronics aren’t run of the mill Charvel either;
three J200 Jackson stacked single coil pickups…and not a humbucker in sight (OK, so the stacked singles ARE technically
a humbucker). Charvel made the noiseless pickups more interesting though by installing a micro-switch that activates a Jackson
J1000E active mid boost. Controlled through the tone knob the active circuitry makes this guitar really scream!

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| Retro cool meets ultra shred... All in one guitar |
The Model 3DR is perhaps the antithesis of the Spectrum: This is a shred masters delight- meant
to look mean with a minimum of frills. It’s got a black Jackson JT-6 trem and locking nut, a 7/8th size basswood
Dinky (the DR in the model name is for Dinky Reversed) body and the awesome Fire Crackle finish. The neck is
a shredders delight: thin and flat maple with reversed black headstock and a rosewood fretboard slide easily through
your hand. When I received this guitar it had a terrible mismatch of active and
passive pickups, with a jumble of spaghetti for wiring. The original Jackson single coil, humbucker, and electronics were
long gone. I replaced all that junk with a Switchcraft 5-way & output jack and a CTS 500K volume pot. Pickups were a more
difficult choice though, as originals didn’t seem to be obtainable, even on Evilbay. I thought for a while, about what
this guitar was originally intended to play….METAL! So, I gave a nod to Dimebag, and ordered up Bill Lawrence
pickups (clean, mellow jazz tones were NOT an issue). An L-500XL uberbucker in the bridge and an L-250 stacked single
in the neck position. Lock and load, and take no prisoners!
\m/(> <)\m/

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| Evil and menacing with just one job: METAL MAYHEM |
A special thanks to Dave W at Frets On The Net for the custom pickup ring, rear covers and
assorted Fire Crackle mayhem.

Newest member of The Stripe Room added 10/7 - The watershed of choice guitars on
the market interestingly, continued into October. I had wanted to purchase an ESP Standard Series guitar for a few years now
to check out their workmanship and value. I had seen the 2003 press releases promising they would be custom shop quality pieces,
but at sub rock star prices. Additionally, the satin camouflage paint schemes available definitely hit a chord (pun intended)
with me. When the opportunity to get a camo Viper Standard emerged I thought it might be revealing to compare it with my LTD
branded Viper.
The 2004 ESP Viper
Standard is an amazing piece of wood. The mahogany body and set neck is without a doubt the most resonant guitar I own (except
for the aluminum / composite Fouke guitars). Strumming it unplugged, the acoustic sound is as loud as my large semi-hollow
bodied guitars. This is also my first guitar with EMG pickups, and I can see why they are favorites of so many metal guitarists.
The active EMG 81 humbucking set send out such a strong signal, my weenie-boy Crate amp could barely handle it. Along with
the Gotoh Tune-o-Matic bridge / stop tailpiece and ebony fretboard they conspire to give sustain that can damn near be measured
with a calendar. I’m talking endless power chords here, and palm muted chugga-chugga that makes anyone sound like Hetfield
or Hanneman. Turn the volume knob way back, and select the neck pickup, and you can jangle and play sweet, smooth jazz licks.
Although I don’t think any jazz cats would be caught dead with such an ostentatious camouflage axe.

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| All dressed up and ready for battle! |
As far as a direct comparison
between My LTD Max Cavalera (MC-500) Viper and the ESP Camo Viper go, here are a few observations: The Camo is definitely
put together a little tighter and a little more carefully than the Max - Weight is a little more on the Camo I suppose because
of the two pickups and 9 volt battery - The satin paint on the neck of the Camo is a joy to play - Alder body/maple
neck on Max feels more solid than mahogany Camo - Overall sound is personal taste, but I prefer the initial attack & organic
sound of the passive SH-6B pickup over the more compressed tone (almost artificial) of the active EMG 81's.
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